Caye Caulker…get back the feeling of diving

2 10 2012

After four days in Puerto Morelos, a few relevant informations in my backpack and a nice last night with James, Julie and Ernesto I headed back by taxi to the already known intersection very early (6.00 clock), in order to catch a local bus (stops everywhere) to the border town Chetumal about 450 km south. Scheduled duration about 6 hours. The well known towns on this route Playa del Carmen and Tulum, I skipped knowingly.

All I knew was how the bus looks like and departure time at 6.30 clock. There are no posted schedules available. To make sure I asked some locals at bus stop again, but everybody told me a different story regarding bus stop, destinations etc….at least what I understood! So, don’t get nervous…with approx. 15min delay the bus came and we went straight to Chetumal. In total, an unspectacular trip.

From bus terminal in Chetumal I caught a taxi to get to the specific pier where you can get a ferry between Chetumal (Mexico) and Caye Caulker (Belize). It was important to get the last ferry in the afternoon (15.00 clock) because no normal person wants to stay longer than necessary in Chetumal, believe me! Therefore, I left Puerto Morelos so early in the morning. At this pier you also have to do the exit procedures (disembarkation) from Mexico, including drug control by mexican army with dogs right on the pier…a huge effort, you had to stand right there in 35 degrees…and then…you couldn’t beat the listlessness of the dog…what a farce once again!

Anyway, the entire trip to Belize (island: Caye Caulker) took about 3h with a stop on an island (Ambergris, San Pedro) close to CC because there you have to get your visa on arrival directly at the end of the small pier – completely relaxed and unbureaucratic…exactly, how it should be work 😉 At the onward journey (about 17.30 clock) to Caye Caulker we passed a private island of Bill Gates (costs: $US 40 million) and got into the darkness/sunset slowly. You should consider, its getting dark approx. 18.00 clock every day in this region. Our captain activated the second engine (2x 250hp) and we literally shot like a bullet over the water to the pier…great feeling!

Although I had previously informed something regarding lodging, but nothing booked in advance, etc. At the pier you will be equal to “harassed” by appropriate guides. As luck would have it … one of the guys was from one of my lodging choice. Little cute backpacker hostel (Bella) in a good location.

Caye Caulker is a small island that you can explore relaxed in less than half a day on foot or bicycle. Everyone knows everyone. There are no cars, only small golf cars as taxis, and bicycles for hire. CC is in contrast to the neighboring island of Ambergris not quite soooo touristy, it means joins yet everywhere shop, restaurant, bar, hotel / hostel etc. together. But it should be made much more in recent years.

Yes, why now actually there? The main reason for me was appropriate diving spots on the Belize Barrier Reef (the longest barrier reef in the northern hemisphere), and in particular the very famous “Blue Hole” at the so-called Lighthouse Reef, and a recommended by Olli 3-day Sailing Cruise from Caye Caulker to Placencia to and then from there to get to him. Because as I said still low season everything was relaxed. But also had a major disadvantage, since corresponding interesting tours (including fishing, diving, sailing, snorkeling, etc.) were very difficult to organize, since most people and too little interested. Background and biggest problem that fuel for Belizean conditions is clean is expensive (about U.S. $ 8 per gallon, that is almost like us) and therefore only fully booked tours, especially in low season, profitable. Note: Fuel is imported from Venezuela, but electricity from Mexico government … strange!

Thus my planned sailing trip fell victim to Placencia this circumstance. The organizers even made then for the whole of October. So I focused fully to diving. After about 10 months of abstinence tingled enormous, especially to dive the Blue Hole. Since this is not the easiest diving, I decided on two local dives (spots: Esmeralda, Cypress tunnel) in advance, just to get back some feeling and security in a long time. Three Israelis were on the boat … it all worked out very well and I felt good. See, there was inter alia Reefsharks, stingrays, barracudas, colorful and diverse corals, smaller channels.

After some back and forth in the days before it was place on 1.10. so far. A day trip with 3 Dives (incl. Blue Hole) and 14 other divers on boat to stand. That meant going 5.30 clock from Pier as to drive long distances. It was rewarded with a great sunrise and a beautiful boat ride in the day / Morgen…ich love THAT! And even the anticipation / excitement …

The Blue Hole is particularly impressive about 40m / Stalagtit huge formations. In addition, medium-sized joined Reefsharks around you. Even when you arrive you can see the sharks around the boat around! Since the term in the hole itself is not necessarily the best (lots of plankton), there is something exciting and “getting used to”;) The other dives (spots: Half Moon Cayewall, Long Caye Aquarium) presented relatively normal inhabitants of these waters, including Reefsharks, barracudas, rays, Turtels, Lobster, and nice channels and smaller caves. The day was rounded with a 1.5 hour stop on a remote island to eat, relax and bird watching.

Got to know a little older Dutch boat very likeable couple who are avid Traveler, Diver and almost everything seen taken and what is so immersed have on this planet. In addition resulted from the talks, which they had previously directly at Olli in Hopkins … when I told you the background story we laughed delicious. After returning first evening went each his own way, but inevitably they met sometime back on this small island. This is what happened, we let the evening meal together, finish off a lot of rum, beer and all kinds of travel stories. What for great stories and a wealth of experience of both – great!

The next morning I went to Hopkins to Olli then … let’s see if you recognize yourself yet;)

 

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